Brassiere



May 22, 1956 L. KRIEGER 2,745,053

BRASSIERE Filed Sept. 29, 1953 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 Fig. I

INVENTOR.

LARRY L. KRIEGER ATTORNEY L. L. KRIEGER May 22, I956 BRASSIERE 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed Sept. 29, 1953 Fig.3

INVENTOR.

LARRY L. KRIEGER ATTORNEY L. L. KRIEGER May 22, 1956 BRASSIERE 3 Sheets-Sheet 5 Filed Sept. 29, 1953 Fig. 5

INVENTOR.

LARRY L. KR/EGER ATTORNEY.

United States Patent ce 2,746,053 Patented May 22, 1956 BRASSIERE Larry L. Krieger, Dover, Del., assignor to International Latex Corporation, Dover, Del., a corporation of Delaware Application September 29, 1953, Serial No. 383,012

1 Claim. (Cl. 2-42) This invention relates to brassieres or bras of the type which support and mold the breasts of the human female in a desired shape and is particularly concerned with providing such support and molding while imposing the least perceptible restraint on the body and movements of the wearer.

Because of the highly competitive nature of this field, there are many ingenious variations of the'basic bra structure which comprises spaced breast shaping and supporting members including breast cups, means for encircling the body and holding the bra in a more or less fixed position thereto, and shoulder straps supporting the top of each of the breast supporting members and attached to spaced positions on the back of the body encircling band. The body encircling means generally includes a band, strip or strap across the back which is discontinuous at the center and is joined or fastened together by fastening means, such as hooks and eyes. However, even currently popular variations of the basic brassiere structure involve compromises in desirable features or sacrifice some of these features in order to achieve an inexpensive construction.

An important problem that has concerned manufacturers and designers of brassieres is that of supporting, and, in the modern trend, considerably raising or uplifting the breast tissue without imposing binding or circulation-reducing restraint on any part of the breast. Such a restraint arises from the fact that in order to achieve support or uplift and/or a desired conical shape to the breast, the shoulder strap must exert a pull on the lower portion or base of the breast cup, such pull or tension being transmitted generally by the sides of the breast cup. When the sides of the breast cup are inelastic in order to transmit the full tension exerted by the shoulder strap to the base of the breast cup, such an inelastic side cuts in to the breast. This occurs because the breast curves or bulges outwardly beyond the straight line between the shoulder strap and the base of the breast cup; a line which the side of the breast cup tends to assume when under tension. If the side of the breast cup is elastic, the shoulder strap must be placed under greater tension to achieve the desired eifect on the base of breast; a situation that often results in the back of brassiere undesirably moving or riding up. Additionally, any loss in elasticity, as will occur in repeated washings, diminishes and in time considerably impairs the proper functioning and shape of the garment.

The problem outline above is more acute at the inner sides of the breasts, due to the absence of flesh in the area of the breast bone or sternum where the breasts form a valley. Additionally, the inner sides of the breasts are well rounded or abruptly curved and extend considerably past the straight line between shoulder strap and the centrally positioned extremity of the base of cup, over which line the tension from the shoulder strap is exerted.

Brassieres incorporating the present invention avoid these difiiculties by employing a front central construe tion in which the tension exerted by the shoulder straps is transmitted non-elastically along the inner sides of the breast cups to the bases of the breast cups and yet the breasts are confined in members which yield or give at their inner or centrally positioned boundaries, as described more fully below.

The upper parts of such breast confining members effect a gentle restraint or molding action which the lower parts yieldably but firmly hold and space apart the breasts to produce a graceful constant division or valley so that the wearer is not subjected to the discomfort or embarrassment of having the breasts partially escape from the inner sides of the breast cups when exercising or when a stooping or bending position.

These and other desirable effects are achieved by brassieres of the type shown in the drawings which illustrate embodiments of the present invention, it being understood that such embodiments are shown by way of illustration and not by way of limitation, in which drawings:

Figure 1 shows a front view of a preferred embodiment of the brassiere with the body encircling band in a plane but with the breast cups extended, some details having been omitted from this view for simplification;

Figure 2 is an enlarged front view of the front center section of the brassiere;

Figure 3 is an additionally enlarged cross-sectional view taken along the lines 33 of Fig. 2;

Figure 4 is an enlarged front view of the front center section of another embodiment of the brassiere; and

Figure 5 is an additionally enlarged view taken along the line 55 of Fig. 4.

The brassiere shown in Fig. 1 has a body encircling band indicated generally by 20, breast supporting and/ or confining members indicated generally at 21 and shoulder straps 22 attached to the top of breast supporting members 21, such as by means of a loop or doubled strap 23 and adjustable connector 24. Shoulder straps 22 are attached, as by sewing, to fixed spaced positions on the back or dorsal portion of the body encircling band 20, as shown. Body encircling band 20, which is discontinuous at the back, is equipped at its ends with fastening means, such as a plurality of rows of eyes 25 which cooperate with hooks (not shown) on the opposite end of the band.

Breast confining members 21 comprise breast cups, indicated generally by 26, which are constructed of light weight pliable substantially inelastic fabric, cloth or material, cut or otherwise shaped and sewn to form outwardly conical cups. In order to achieve a pleasing and decorative effect, the cup may be formed of two difierent fabrics, such as figured nylon sheer and plain nylon of the marquisette type, with the latter sewn to a double piece of the former, which is then doubled back so as to place the cut edge of the latter, which becomes the lower portion 27 of the breast cup, between the twoply fabric of the upper section 28 of the breast cup. Preferably the fabric used for upper section 28 is cut so that it is on the bias with respect to the upward pull of the shoulder strap, thus preventing undesirable sagging and loss of shape in the upper section when the brassiere is worn. Attached to the bottom of the lower section 27 of each breast cup, as by sewing and forming a front or pectoral portion of the body encircling band 20 is a horizontally elongated front panel 31, made of a relatively heavy fabric, cloth, or material which, in the embodiment shown in Fig. 1, is elastic in a horizontal direction, such a woven strip, band or piece of material containing bare or covered rubber threads woven with rayon or cotton threads; e. g., the material known as Lastex. The top of panel 31 is concavely shaped to conform to the bottom boundary of the breast and is attached to the base or bottom boundary of the breast cup while the vertical edges of panel 31 constitute extensions of the sides of the breast cup thereabove so that the panel cooperates with the breast cup and forms a firm base or support for the breast that also obviates escape of the flesh of the lower portion of the breast. The lower horizontal edge or base of panel 31 is formed by folding the fabric inwardly and stitching.

Surrounding and attached, as by sewing, to the outer edges of both the upper and lower portions 28 and 27, respectively, of the breast cups and to the rearward vertical edges of front panels 31 are side panels 32. Each of side panels 32, which may be made of a single ply single piece of pliable light material, such as nylon taffeta, is shaped as shown in the drawing so that a relatively narrow forwardly and upwardly extending strip 33 is marginally attached, as by sewing, to the outer side and top of the upper portion 28 of breast cup 26. Loop 23 which engages connector 24 is attached, as by sewing, to the uppermost part of strap 33, which forms the top of the breast supporting member 21. As shown in Fig. 1, side panel 32 is reduced in width in the back past the point where shoulder strap 22 is attached, so that a low backed dress can be worn. A strip of material 34, preferably horizontally elastic, can be attached, as by sewing, to one of the side panels so that a prefabricated strip of material containing hooks 25 can be attached to this side panel.

In accordance with the invention, inner elastic breast hugging members, elements, or margins 35 and 36 are individually marginally attached to the inner edges of the upper portions 28 of the breast cups (i. e., the inner edge of a breast cup is slightly overlapped over the rearward edge of an elastic member 35 or 36 and joined thereto, as by stitching along lines 37 and 38, the elastic member thereby acting as an extension of the breast cup or as the inner margin of the breast confining member). Elastic members 35 and 36 extend from substantially the tops of the breast cups or proximate the shoulder straps (i. e., from just below strips 33 to which they are sewn) downwardly for the full extent of the inner edges of breast cups 26 to the center of the brassiere, thus forming narrow inner marginal or side portions or parts of the breast confining members.

Because of the inelastic nature of the fabric used for the breast cups, the seams formed by lines of stitching 37 and 38 are inelastic or non-stretchable. This seam, which defines and is coincident with the inner side or longitudinal boundary of the breast cup, extends downwardly to the bottom of the breast cup, the junction or intersection of the inner side and the bottom of the breast cup being offset a substantial distance, such as from about one half to one and a half inches, from the center of the brassiere, as indicated by A in Fig. 2. The tension from the shoulder strap is thus transmitted undiminished to the bottom of the breast cup and the body encircling band by the inelastic side of the breast cup while the outer edges of 35 and 36 are free to stretch and conform to the contours of the breast. When the shoulder straps are spaced to exert a slight outward (as well as upward) pull and thus fashionably divide or separate the breasts, the brassiere can hinge about the offset junctions of inelastic sides and the bottoms of the breast cups because of the elasticity of the outer edges of members 35 and 36. Such action causes elastic members to mold and hug the curving contours of the inner sides of breasts so snugly that the breasts do not tend to escape or bulge inwardly in an unsightly manner even when the wearer is stooping. Additionally, this construction provides sufficient elasticity that the brassiere does not uncomfortably bind even when the wearer turns, while additionally providing the advantage of inelastic support of the bottom of the breast cups.

Inner elastic breast hugging members 35 and 36 are made from relatively heavy fabric, cloth or material which has considerable elasticity in at least one direction, such as a woven strip, band or piece of material containing bare or covered rubber threads woven with rayon.

or cotton threads. The elastic members shown in Figs. 1, 2 and 3 are cut in the shape of an arrowhead so that they can be folded to form two-ply obtuse-angled triangles. The longest side of this triangular shape is affixed to the inner edge of the upper portion 28 of a breast cup and to the forward or inner side edge of the adjacent front panel 31, the blunted uppermost tip being affixed to strip 33, while the shortest side is attached to the inner side of the opposite front panel 31 (as shown in Fig. 2) the third side being a folded edge most of which becomes the innermost or central edge or boundary of the breast confining member 21. Elastic members 35 and 36 are cut so that they have elasticity in opposite diagonal directions (i. e., generally from the respective shoulder strap to the center of the front section), and hence gently mold or restrain the inner portions or sides of the breasts.

It has been found that fabrication of elastic members 35 and 36 so that the maximum elasticity is in a direction which is at a slight bias to the inner side or inelastic seam of the breast cup to which the elastic member is attached, as shown by arrows 39 and 41, is advantageous. Such a bias results in a moderate concave curvature of the outer or folded edges of members 35 and 36, when the brassiere is in use, which curvature advantageously conforms to and molds the curving inner sides of the breasts.

In the embodiment shown in Figs. 1, 2 and 3, elastic members 35 and 36 extend downwardly below the breast cups and to the bottom of the body encircling band and form a pocket at their lower ends, in the shape of an inverted isosceles triangle. Positioned within this pocket and attached solely to the sides thereof, as by sewing at 42-42, folding over front panel 31, and then applying finishing stitches 37 and 38 and finishing braid or tape 44, is a piece or strip 43 of pliable inelastic fabric, such as nylon taffeta, of the same triangular shape as the pocket. Such a construction forms an inelastic central section which functions as part of the body encircling band and which serves to maintain a constant spacing or division of the breast cups. Such a central section resists vertical collapse or rolling up of the front of the body encircling band and yet is comfortable because it is pliable circumferentially or girthwise.

In the embodiment shown in Figs. 4 and 5, wherein elements of a similar nature and function have been given identical numbers to similar elements in Figs. 1, 2 and 3, elastic members 50 and 51 are similar to elastic members 35 and 36 and act or function as elastic margins for breast confining members 26 and are attached to the inelastic inner sides or seams of the breast cups. However, since strips 33 are omitted from the side panels so that these side panels terminate at the rearward edges of the breast cups, elastic members 50 and 51 start at the top of the breast supporting members and are attached to the uppermost portion of the upper half of the breast cups. Elastic members 50 and 51, which are formed of two-ply material of the same type as the material of elastic members 35 and 36, the outermost edges being folded edges, extend downwardly to the front center portion or panel 52 of the body encircling band so that the outer edges form an acute angled V. Front center panel 52, which is a generally diamond shaped panel of substantial width at its greatest dimension, such as from about 1 /2 to 2 /2 and preferably about 2 inches, is made of a horizontally inelastic material. It can be advantageously made of a light pliable fabric, such as nylon taffeta, which is inelastic in all directions or it can be made of heavier material, which is horizontally inelastic. The bottom of elastic members 50 and 51, as well as the short lowermost edges of the upper portions 28 of the breast cups are attached to the top or upper sides of panel 52 while the forward vertical edges of panels 31 are attached to the lower sides of panel 52.

As can be seen from the above description, the brassiere of the present invention affords a garment that is comfortable and yet positive in its action. Elastic marginal portions at the inner sides of cach breast supporting member cooperate with inelastic inner sides of the breast cups to shape the breasts into a desirable shape, and to prevent an embarrassing displacement of the breast when the wearer is in a stooping or bending position. Such a construction provides permanent and unyielding support at the base of the breasts and yet yields or gives at the inner sides of the breasts so that circulation-reducing restraint or binding is avoided, even when the wearer exercises or turns. Such brassieres minimize the tendency of brassieres to ride up in the back particularly when extra tension is placed on the shoulder straps, as with heavy breasted women. Although the breasts are firmly held and fashionably divided, wearers of these brassieres have stated that the breasts are comfortably and almost imperceptibly restrained. All of these advantages are gained by a relatively simple construction that can be produced at a relatively low cost.

Although the present invention has been described with particularity with reference to preferred embodiments, it will be obvious to those skilled in the art, after understanding the invention, that various changes and modifications may be made therein without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention and the appended claim should therefore be interpreted to cover such changes and modifications.

I claim as my invention:

In a brassiere comprising spaced breast cups, each cup having a base and inelastic side margins, and means for holding the brassiere in position on the wearer, the combination therewith of a generally diamond shaped, horizontally inelastic center panel; elongated, horizontally elastic front panels attached to the bases of said breast cups and to said center panel; and breast-hugging elastic members substantially coextensive with and peripherally attached to the inelastic margins of the inner sides of said breast cups, said members being attached at their bases to the respective upper sides of said center panel and being made of elastic fabric having maximum elasticity in a direction parallel to the free edge of said members.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,202,058 Malnick May 28, 1940 2,390,465 Russo Dec. 4, 1945 2,553,225 Weaver et al May 15, 1951 2,578,175 Cuozzi Dec. 11, 1951 FOREIGN PATENTS 595,793 Great Britain Dec. 15, 1947 1,010,621 France Mar. 26, 1952 

